Got the front diff in. Did a couple modifications as well.
The front diff is a factory 4.88 from a 93 that had Auto tranny and the 31 inch tire option. It has ADD and while I could have easily swapped it to a solid driver side I decided to keep it. The reason is I am going to hook it up because it will allow me to kill the drive to the front wheels without getting out. So it will give me 2 low. If I need to cross some pavement then back into soft conditions a quick flip of the switch and the front axle is disconnected.
It will also allow me to do "digs". A "dig" is basically power breaking. Front wheels locked rear wheels spinning. What you can do is walk the back wheels sideways by steering with the front wheels locked if you need to reposition the truck for a better line. You can do it by unlocking a hub but now I can do it by flipping a switch. If I am ever stupid enough to lock the IFS front that will also help with steering in 4wd.
Next trick:
When I picked up the diff I notices two of the bolts for the half shaft were out. Asked the guy about it and he got a big grin on his face and told me why. In stock configuration if you bust a CV you have jack the truck up remove the wheel and unbolt the lower ball joint. That will allow you to swing the hub out enough to get the half shaft out.
With two bolts removable you can get the half shaft out by fully extending the suspension and turning the wheel to the lock. That will let you have just enough room to worm it out without even taking the wheel off. Just put the opposite side up on a rock to get the broken side fully extended.
The front wheels were on ramps so I couldn't crank the wheel but using the jack to extend the suspension I can almost get the CV past the flange so it looks like it will work.
I pressed two of the bolts out and filed off the knurls that retain them so they can be pushed out by hand. Just have to use a wrench on both the nut and bolt but no big deal.
The last modification may have been caught by the observant already. Here is a better picture.
One of the IFS weaknesses is the lower control arm mounts. Most people will never have a problem unless you really start to run big tires and wheel hard. 33x12.5 is bigger then the designers ever planned for and thats what I already have on the truck.
What will happen is the brackets will start to flex and fatigue and crack at the frame. Part of the problem is in stock form the rear lower control arms do not have a cross brace. Its a bad enough problem that the aftermarket makes a brace. http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm (little over half way down.).
If you still haven't figured it out I made a brace using a factory brace and salvaged brackets from a spare front suspension I got from a Buddy that did a SAS. All the parts are stock just welded on the rear lower mounts. ;) Had to notch the brace to clear the diff but still plenty strong. Eventually I will cut a skid plate that will also help triangulate the control arm mounts and make them even stronger.
